Nepal is a small mountainous country located in the heart of the highest mountain system on the planet, the Himalayas. The most interesting thing for those who come to Nepal is the Himalayas. They fly here both to participate in relatively easy trekking and to climb high and difficult peaks. Just imagine: in Nepal, there are 8 of 14 eight-thousanders in the world! The choice of climbing is impressive: here you can climb your first serious summit, as well as try to climb Everest itself.
CLIMBING IN THE HIMALAYAS
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In terms of climbing, Nepal has a number of features compared to other popular mountain regions:
On the way to the summits, members stay overnight and eat in special mountain shelters – lodges. This reduces the number of items needed and also makes the trekking part of the climb more comfortable.
During climbing in the Himalayas, porters are actively involved – local porters who carry most of the things and weights all the way to the summit camp. In this way, participants save energy and can have more fun with the trekking part of the program.
A local guide is involved in the group in addition to the main Kuluar instructor. He performs the usual functions of a guide as well as helping with communication with the Nepalese.
All more or less difficult sections of most routes are roped. At the beginning of each season, the Sherpas renew them. On the actual climb, the local guide is the first to choose the right rope. This makes it safer and more comfortable.
All mountain peaks in Nepal in terms of climbing are divided into trekking and expedition peaks. They differ in complexity and approach to the organization of the climb and base camps. Trekking summits are relatively simple six-thousand meters peaks that do not require any special skills from the climbers. Trekking summits usually have only one tent for the group at base camp.
Expedition summits are high, complex mountains that require careful, expensive preparation to climb. The base camp of such a summit is a whole mini-village with heaters, generators, a team of cooks, canteens, etc.
To climb most mountains in Nepal, participants need to buy a special permit. The higher and more "honorable" the summit, the higher its cost. However, Kuluar participants do not need to worry about this: the price of permits is already included in the cost of the program.
CLIMBING IN THE HIMALAYAS – WHY WITH KULUAR?
Climbing in Nepal with the Kuluar Club has a number of advantages:
We take care of the whole organization
Permits, hotels, porters, domestic flights – we deal with all issues. You just have to focus on the top.
PROGRAM VARIETY
We offer a variety of peaks: from relatively simple six-thousanders to the most difficult and highest eight-thousanders of Nepal.
THOUGHTFUL ACCLIMATION
The program of each ascent is designed in such a way that the participants get the highest quality acclimatization and, accordingly, increase the chances of a successful ascent.
Professional team leaders
Kuluar team leaders have extensive experience in climbing in Nepal, the Alps, South America, Central Asia, both on difficult technical peaks and on the Himalayan eight-thousanders.
DATE WARRANTY
If the manager gave the go-ahead to buy a ticket, you can be sure that the ascent will take place. There will be no cancellation of the program through our fault.
AN EXPERIENCED MANAGER WITH PERSONAL CLIMBING BACKGROUND
Will advise you competently.
IF YOU GO TO THE MOUNTAINS, THEN GO WITH KULUAR!
CLIMBING IN NEPAL 2024
If you can't find suitable dates – contact the manager. Maybe we will add one for you:)
The mountains discussed below are suitable for beginner climbers. But to participate in the programs you must have experience of being at altitudes of 5000 meters and higher. Kazbek, Ararat, Kilimanjaro or other similar mountains, as well as high-altitude Himalayan trekking are suitable.
Climbing Mera Peak
Mera Peak (6,461 m) – is the highest trekking peak and a great mountain for your first climbing above 6,000 meters. Because of its isolated location, Mera Peak has fantastic views. In good weather you can see five eight-thousanders: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga.
Technically, it is a simple summit, which does not require climbers to have any special skills. The climb is only 600 meters, which is significantly less than other similar peaks.
The peculiarity of the mountain is that it is very cold and windy: the temperature drops to -30 degrees and wind gusts can reach 200 kilometers per hour. This imposes additional requirements on equipment and clothing.
Overall, Mera Peak is perfect for those who want to climb a high and relatively easy peak. Mera Peak is also a great choice if you have already participated in the trek to Everest, as the approach to the mountain is through a different valley (unlike the ascent of Island Peak, which will be discussed below).
Climbing Island Peak
Island Peak (6 189 м) – is another Nepalese 6,000-meter peak and one of the most interesting trekking peaks in the Himalayas. The members will have to walk in bundles and crampons. On the way there will be one ladder through a crevasse, and the ascent to the summit climb will be carried out with the help of a jumper. Don't worry: in the training sessions in the first part of the program, you can improve your skills if necessary.
The summit of Island Peak offers stunning views of Ama Dablam, one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Island Peak, unlike Mera, usually has no wind: it is protected by the Lhotse wall.
In general, the climbing to Island Peak will be appealing for those who want to try themselves on a technically difficult and interesting six-thousand meter peak. It is also worth going here for those who have not yet been on the trek to Everest, as the first 9 days of these two routes overlap.
Climbing the Lobuche
Lobuche East (6 119 м) – is another very popular trekking peak of six thousand meters in Nepal. The first part of the climbing to the summit, as in the case of the Island Peak climb, follows the famous Everest trekking route. Climbers will enjoy views of the "Top of the World" and visit its legendary base camp.
In terms of technical difficulty, the ascent to Lobuche is not the easiest and goes from the summit camp along the steep snow-ice southeast ridge.
In general, Lobuche can be considered as an alternative to the ascent of Island Peak, as the beginning of these two routes coincide.
Climbing in the Himalayas for the more skilled
The next level of climbing difficulty in Nepal is the mountains around 7,000 meters and above. These are peaks for the advanced, the strong and the confident. If you can cope with this challenge, you can surely look towards the eight-thousanders, including Everest.
Climbing Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam (6 856 м) – is one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas and the world, a real calling card of Nepal.
The mountain is as beautiful as it is challenging. To take part in the program, you should have experience in climbing above 6,000 m. Mera Peak described above will do, as well as Aconcagua. As an option: the 5,000 meters summits of the Caucasus or Mont Blanc in the off-season or winter. Experience with technically difficult peaks, such as Matterhorn, is also very desirable.
The approach to Ama Dablam follows the trekking route to Everest, and for acclimatization the group will climb Island Peak (6,189 m).
In general, the climbing to Ama Dablam will attract experienced climbers who want to climb a very beautiful and technically challenging peak and prepare for even higher and more challenging mountains.
Climbing Himlung Himal
Himlung Himal (7,140 m) is Nepal's popular 7,000 m climbing peak, located between Annapurna and Manaslu on the border with Tibet. The classic route is relatively easy, which is why hundreds of climbers come to the summit each year.
The mountain may be of interest to experienced climbers who want to climb 7,000 for the first time. At the same time, Himlung Himal can act as an alternative to the more difficult Lenin Peak.
Kuluar does not have a climbing program now, but we plan to create one in the near future.
Climbing the eight-thousanders in Nepal
If you have successfully overcome the previous steps, then you can easily try your skills on the eight-thousanders of Nepal. And there are a lot of them!
Climbing Manaslu
Manaslu (8 167 м) – the eighth-highest peak of the planet. This mountain can compete with Cho Oyu for the title of the perfect first eight-thousanders to climb. The fact is that these two mountains are technically easier than the other eight-thousanders, but the cost of the permit to Cho Oyu is much higher.
The trekking part of the expedition program on Manaslu passes through the national park of the same name, which will impress members with pristine nature and fabulous scenery.
Kuluar, represented by founder Taras Pozdnii and guide Alexander Pavlov made a successful expedition to Manaslu in September 2017. In 2021, a group of four members led by Vladimir Roshko successfully climbed Manaslu, a 100% success!
Climbing Everest
Everest (8,848 m) – is the highest peak on the planet and the cherished dream of all mountaineers. The mountain is located on the border of Nepal and China (Tibet), the expedition is possible from one side or the other.
The classic route from Nepal does not involve much technical difficulty, but the impressive height of the mountain can be a big challenge, so when preparing for Everest it is very important to gain high altitude experience.
If you decide to climb Everest with Kuluar you will make the famous trek to the base camp of the mountain, get acquainted with the nature and culture of Nepal and the legendary Khumbu glacier, which is one of the main impressions of the whole program.
Kuluar founder Taras Pozdnii successfully climbed Everest in May 2018, gaining invaluable experience. In 2021, a group of 5 participants led by Nikita Balabanov successfully climbed Everest, a 100% success!
Climbing Lhotse
Lhotse (8 516 м) – is the fourth summit of the Earth, located in proximity to Everest and shared with it by the South Saddle Pass. Due to the fact that the summits of Everest and Lhotse are only 3 kilometers apart, the routes to them coincide up to a certain point. Participants climbing Lhotse also trekking through Sagarmatha National Park and then up through the Khumbu Icefall to the upper camps.
Other Eight Thousand Mountains of Nepal
Cho Oyu (8,201 m) is a mountain on the border of China and Nepal. And if the route from China is one of the easiest of all the eight-thousanders, the mountain from Nepal ends with the most difficult South Face, which can be reached by very few climbers.
Makalu (8 485 м) – the fifth highest eight-thousandth peak. Its name translates as "Black Giant", which alludes to the mountain's uneasy temper. But despite the formidable name and high altitude, Makalu on the classic route is considered one of the most accessible eight-thousanders.
Annapurna (8 091 m) – a large mountain range in central Nepal, with 13 peaks above 7,000 meters. Despite the fact that Annapurna is far from being the highest eight-thousand meter peak, it remains one of the most difficult and dangerous peaks. In order to appreciate the greatness of the mountain with your own eyes, we invite you to take part in a trek around Annapurna.
Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) – is the seventh-highest peak in the world and the westernmost of Nepal's eight thousand meter peaks. Like Annapurna, it is a large mountain range with 11 major peaks.
Kanchenjunga (8 586 м) – is the third peak of the planet, located in the eastern part of the Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and India. One of the most dangerous and beautiful peaks in the world.
Seasonality of climbing in Nepal
Traditionally, there are two seasons for mountain climbing and trekking in Nepal: spring (from mid-March to mid-May) and autumn (from mid-September to late November). In the other months, weather conditions do not permit climbing. In the summer, in the Himalayas, there is a time of monsoon: it rains all the time. And during the winter months it is very cold and there is a lot of snow.
Most of Nepal's mountains can be climbed in both spring and fall, but for some peaks there is a preferable season for climbing:
Manaslu, Ama Dablam in the fall.
Everest and other 8,000-meter peaks - spring
Whichever of Nepal's peaks you're going to, do it in the company of experienced guides. If you're going to Nepal, go with Kuluar!
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