Briefly about myself
I do not like "rush" and try to make all processes take place calmly, whether it is communication between the participants or overcoming a difficult section on the route. There are enough excitement in the mountains without people! It is worth it to fully enjoy them, being in a beautiful place. After all, impressions are the most valuable things we can get from life. Well, travel is the greatest storehouse of impressions.
I try to make all possible preparations in advance to avoid surprises on the spot. It concerns everything: equipment, route, and condition of the group.
Well also I know a lot about the mountain areas, their tops and routes on them. Therefore, those who are in this subject will not be bored. And those who are not in the subject, listening, can quickly join! :)
- Golden Ice Pick (Piolets d'Or) 2016 (the most prestigious award in the world of mountaineering)
- Golden Hook (Golden Piton) 2015 - theAmerican version of the golden ice axe
- Winner of the 2014 World Championship and 2015 World Champion in the high altitude class according to EAMA (Euro-Asian Mountaineering Association)
- Golden Peak 2015 - best climbing of Ukrainian teams
- Multiple champion of Ukraine in high-altitude class
- 10 years of experience in organizing independent expeditions
- Leader of the 2021 Everest expedition from the Kuluar. All 6 participants (including Nikita) successfully climbed the mountain.
- Paul Preuss Solidarity Award for the best ascent of 2022 (Annapurna III).
- Primus Inter Pares Award 2022 (annual award of the Polish Alpine Club) for the best ascent (Annapurna III).
- Special prize of the most important award in the world of mountaineering Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe) 2022 for the first ascent of the SE-East ridge of Annapurna III (7555 m).
- 2010 Djaylyk 4533m on the N. wall of 5A category of difficulty (Tyutyu-Su Gorge, Elbrus Region, Caucasus). The first difficult route in a small group autonomously.
- 2011 Karagem-Bashi 3962m along the middle of the S. Wall of 5B category of difficulty (North-Chuyskiy Range, Altai). The first difficult ascent in the group of two in a remote region.
- 2012 Traverse of Bezenghi wall of 6A degree of complexity in two climbers in 6 days (Shkhara-Lyalver, Bezenghi gorge, Caucasus). One of the most known and difficult routes of the Caucasus (12 km traverse of 10 peaks, 9 of which are above 4500m, 5 are above 5000m). The second passing in the two climbers.
- 2013 Jigit Peak 5170m along the center of the S. wall of 6A category of difficulty (Terskey Alatau, Tien-Shan).
- 2013 The Peak Free Korea 4777m on the N wall in pairs (Ala-Archa, Tien-Shan). The route Lowe 5A of degree of complexity for 5 hours. Barbera route 5B - 8 hours.
- 2013 Baylian-Bashi Peak 4700m on the North Face and traverse of 5B route of 12 hours. (Ala-Archa, Tien-Shan)
- 2014 Lanshisa Ri 6427m (Langtang of the Himalayas) - the first climb of the route of 6A degree of complexity on the Central buttress of the N. Wall in triple climb (with M.Fomin and V. Polezhayko). One of the first Ukrainian routes in the Himalayas, alpine style (without handling, lightweight, in one trip).
- 2015 Talung 7349m along the SSR ridge of 6B category of difficulty the first ascent in alpine style in twos with M.Fomin (Kanchenjunga Himalayas). The ascent was recognized as the best in 2015 by many international awards (including the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious award in the world of mountaineering).
- 2016 Grand Jorasse 4208m on the S.Wall (Kassin 6A route, Chamonix, Alpes) in the triple.
- 2017 Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 8068m attempt on the Center of the SW wall, up to 7300. Descended due to illness of one of the team members.
- 2017 S. wall Druat 4000m (route Lagarde direct 5B difficulty) and S. wall Grand Jorasse 4208m (route Linsel 5B difficulty) in twos.
- 2018 Aguja Pointcenote 3002m Willans route 5B difficulty in pairs with A. Vergeles (Patagonia, Andes. First ascent of Ukrainian climbers in Patagonia).
- 2018 Aconcagua 6962m (the highest point of South America, Andes). Climbing from Base Camp to the summit and back to Base Camp in 15 hours.
- 2018 Aiguille du Midi 3842m on the S. wall (Mallory route, Chamonix, Alps) free solo in 4 hours in the company of Colin Haley
- 2018 Khan Tengri 7010m along the NW ridge free solo without rope and using ropes up to the top in 24 hours (Tengri-Tag, Tien-Shan).
- 2018 Baylian-Bashi 4700m along the left part of the C wall of 5B category difficulty solo (Ala-Archa, Tien-Shan).
- 2018 Ama-Dablam 6814m solo from BC to the summit in 9h 10min and 15h from BC to BC.
- 2019 Fitz Roy 3359m along the route "Californiana" 5B difficulty (in trio with A. Yakunin and V. Rogova, first ascent of Fitz Roy, the highest point of the Chalten Massif, Patagonia, and one of the most beautiful Patagonian peaks).
- 2019 Ushba 4710m solo ascent by G. Khergiani 5B difficulty (first solo in the off-season, May 14-16).
- 2019 Petit-Dreu 3754m on the S. wall route of 5B category of complexity in a two-man team with N.Kolosovsky (Chamonix, Alps).
- 2019 Shkhara (the highest point of Georgia 5193 m) on the Khergiani route of 5B category in the format of guide/participant in 3 days (Caucasus, Georgia).
- 2020 Matterhorn (Hörnli ridge) winter ascent in the format of guide/participant (Alps, Switzerland).
- 2020 Grossglockner (highest point in Austria 3798 m) new winter route on the SE-East rib in two with A. Yakunin (Alps, Austria).
- 2021 Everest 8848 m, classic route from Nepal as an expedition leader (Himalayas, Nepal).
- 2021 Annapurna IV (7545 m), a new route N-W along the ridge in a threesome with M. Fomin and V. Polezhayko (Himalayas, Nepal).
- 2021 Annapurna III (7555 m), a new route on the S-E ridge in the trio with M. Fomin and V. Polezhayko (Himalayas, Nepal). The climb was recognized in 2022 with many international awards (including the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious award in the world of mountaineering).
Nikita himself about his achievements:
I try to spend as many days as possible in the mountains every year. For 15 years as an athlete, I have been regularly hiking routes that I find challenging and contribute to my progress as a climber. I have been to many mountain systems: The Alps, the Dolomites, the Caucasus, the Tien Shan, the Himalayas, Patagonia, the mountains of Morocco, the Balkans, Turkey, and all sorts of exotic places. There are many climbs to the peaks - both along existing lines and first ascents. All possible categories at different altitudes (up to 8848 m inclusive). There are also all kinds of awards in this area, but I consider them more of a bonus. Since 2017, I have been managing the organization of climbs in the Kuluar club, so I do this not only as an athlete, but also as an organizer who wants our participants to climb safely, reliably and for pleasure. The main thing is the process of being in the mountains and in good company. So I want the participants to feel it and touch the mountains thanks to our club!