"I am alien to ordinary fears. This is nonsense!
If I were afraid all the time, I wouldn't have time to climb mountains.
There, at the top, I have no time for fear.
Except for obvious risks that are known in advance."
These words of Reinhold Messner, who will be discussed here, sound like a challenge to the ordinary and an ode to freedom. They say that life begins where our usual limitations and fears end. In particular, at the incredible height of mountain peaks - more than 8 thousand meters above sea level. By the way, there are no fewer than 14 such eight-thousand meter mountains on our planet. We will also talk about them 😉
Mountains... They make you forget about everyday worries, leaving room for only the most important things - breath, heartbeat, rhythm and the desire to move on. They open up a world in which every step is a victory over oneself, and every peak is proof that human capabilities are limitless. Time seems to stop, and everything around you turns into an endless moment here and now!
It is this feeling that pushes millions of people to go to high mountain ranges. Some are looking for adventure, some for relaxation, and some for inspiration. Who has "conquered" all 14 eight-thousanders? No one, they just let you visit them. And the first "visitor" who succeeded was Reinhold Messner.
This Italian, originally from South Tyrol, has been surrounded by mountains since childhood. When Messner was 13 years old, he started climbing with his 11-year-old brother Gunter. When Reinhold was about 20, he and his brother were among the best climbers in Europe. Developing his skills, the young man quickly became one of the most talented climbers of his generation. Messner has always strived to achieve the impossible, so his approach to climbing was radically different from the traditional one.
His name is associated with incredible courage, endurance, and unique achievements that have become a guiding light for future generations of mountain climbers. Reinhold Messner is a legend of mountaineering, a man who has repeatedly changed the perception of the limits of the possible. Among his most notable achievements are climbing the Crown of the Earth, i.e. all the world's eight-thousanders without oxygen, as well as numerous records that impress even the most demanding skeptics.
1970: Nanga Parbat (8125 м) – the first ascent of the untouched Rupal wall and the first traverse of the mountain by descending the unexplored Diamir wall with his brother Gunter. Before this climb, Messner had never been to an eight-thousander before.
1972: Manaslu (8163 м) – climbing the Southwest Wall and the first ascent of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen.
1975: Gasherbrum 1 (8080 м) – first ascent on the summit without supplemental oxygen with Peter Habeler.
1978: Everest (8848 м) - climbing the highest eight-thousanders in Asia and the world, which Messner accomplished without the use of oxygen.
1979: К2 (8611 м) – partially alpine-style climbing with Michael Daher on the Abruzzi spur.
1981: Shishapangma (8027 м) – climbing with Friedl Mutschlechner;
A new route on the North Face of Kanchenjunga, partly in alpine style, with Friedl Mutschlechner.
1982: Kanchenjunga (8 586 м), Gasherbrum II (8 034 м), Broad Peak (8 051 м) – Messner becomes the first person to climb 3 eight-thousanders in one season.
Also, this year, there was an unsuccessful attempt to climb Cho Oyu in winter,
1983: Cho-Oyu (8188 м) – climbing with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Daher on a partially new route.
1984: Gasherbrum 1 (8 080 м), Gasherbrum II (8 034 м) – the first ascent of two eight-thousanders without returning to the base camp (with Hans Kammerlander).
1985: Annapurna (8 091 м), Dhaulagiri (8 167 м) – first ascent of the northwest wall of Annapurna. Both climbs with Hans Kammerlander.
1986: Makalu (8 485 м) – the fifth-highest eight-thousander and Lhotse (8 516 м) – The year Messner made mountaineering history as the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.
His iconic climbs included:
Interesting articles in the topic: "The first 8000 meters, which mountains to choose, the safest eight-thousander", “The 7 Tops program. List of mountains with description”.
In 1985, Richard Bass first formulated and completed the Seven Summits mountaineering challenge, climbing the highest of each of the seven continents. Messner proposed a different list (Messner's list), replacing Mount Kosciuszko with Indonesia's Puncak Jaya, or Pyramid of Karstensch (4,884 m). In terms of mountaineering, Messner's list is more challenging. Climbing the Pyramid of Karstensch has the character of an expedition, while climbing Kosciuszko is an easy hike. In May 1986, Pat Morrow became the first person to complete Messner's list, and Messner himself, having climbed Mount Vinson in December 1986, became the second.
Reinhold Messner has been listed in the Guinness Book of Records 9 times. All of his achievements are classified as World Firsts (or Historical Firsts). "World Record" is the highest category of any Guinness World Record. This means that ownership of this title never expires. Messner is the second record holder in terms of the number of "world records" (after Icelandic ocean rower Fian Paul, who has 13).
Among Messner's world records:
It is also worth noting that Messner is an amazing person, and he did not limit himself to mountaineering achievements. In 1990, he made a historic crossing of Antarctica on skis without the help of motorized vehicles or dogs. This journey, more than 2800 km long, lasted 92 days... He also crossed the Gobi Desert alone.
In 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler accomplished the incredible - they climbed Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. At the time, it seemed impossible, because at an altitude of over 8,000 meters, the human body faces a critical lack of oxygen, which can lead to serious consequences or even death. Mountain sickness does not spare anyone...
But these two men disproved all doubts, proving that adaptation and training can allow a person to withstand extreme conditions. This ascent not only etched their names in history, but also changed the approach to mountaineering. Messner introduced the concept of "pure mountaineering," which involves minimal use of technical equipment and complete trust in one's own strength.
By the way, the world-famous Ukrainian mountaineer Vladyslav Terzyul, to whom we also devoted a separate article, adhered to this concept.
And what happened next? One of the most mysterious mountains in the world... Kailas! Located in Tibet, the 6638-meter-high Himalayan peak is sacred to many religions, including Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Bon. Its unique pyramidal shape, which resembles a temple/step, gives it a special mystical significance.
Unlike other large mountains, Kailas remains untouched, and climbers have never been to its summit. The ban on climbing is explained by religious beliefs and the desire to preserve the spiritual purity of this shrine. According to legend, any attempt to climb it brings bad luck, as this place is considered the home of the gods.
In the 1980s, Reinhold Messner, already a well-known climber at the time, even received permission from the Chinese government to climb Kailas (!), but at the last minute he refused to accept it. Why? Messner has repeatedly expressed the opinion that certain mountains should remain untouched as symbols of spirituality and harmony between man and nature. Well, two parallels and completely different paths to the top - the desire to overcome physical limits, reaching new things, and the importance of respecting traditions, culture, and nature. Perhaps, the respectful attitude towards Kailas showed that the real peaks are those that we overcome both outside and inside ourselves.
Reinhold Messner not only pushed the boundaries of what was possible, inspiring generations of climbers, but also left a unique cultural legacy. His achievements go far beyond the mountain peaks - museums, books and films tell the story of the world of mountains and the power of the human spirit.
So in 2011 Reinhold achieved another victory, overcame another stage in his life - he created Five Mountain Museums, each of which reveals different aspects of the mountain kingdom. Messner himself called it his 15th eight-thousandth...
Therefore, when planning a trip to the Alps, do not forget that you always have the opportunity to stop by one of them. The Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) system now completely covers a small area of the Italian national region.
The main locations of museums:
"My museums are a place of meetings. Here you can try everything by touch. Collecting has always been my passion, but most of all I collect impressions. I want to present my own experiences, and museums give me the opportunity to share them with the general public."
Reinhold Messner is the author of more than 70 books that have become real bestsellers among fans of mountains and adventures. The most famous among them are:
Reinhold Messner's life has been the subject of numerous films and documentaries. His stories inspire filmmakers around the world because they have everything: drama, victory, loss, and a deep connection with nature.
By the way, you can check out our selections of movies and books about travel, mountains, mountaineering, and climbing.
Reinhold Messner is a legendary man who showed that mountains are not only physical space, but also a place where great ideas, self-belief and true freedom are born!
