Vladyslav Terzyul is a famous Ukrainian climber

He just knew how to do something "through thick and thin."
He had unique willpower and endurance.
He saw the goal!

Mountains are a place where the soul finds peace and the spirit is challenged. And if there is a person who is involved in this philosophy and who embodies it, it is Vladyslav Terzyul (1953-2004). A striking figure, a true legend of world and, in particular, Ukrainian mountaineering, he left a grandiose mark in the history of climbing the highest peaks of the planet.

How many people have conquered all 14 of the world's eight-thousand-foot mountains? The list is not even fifty... By the way, although the word "conquer" is often used, it is incorrect, because mountains cannot be conquered; they are always stronger than a person, even the one who has climbed to the top. Mountain ranges and peaks only allow you to become a part of their majestic world for a moment, accepting those who come with respect, humility and understanding of their power.

Thus, the blue and yellow flag of Ukrainian Terzyul proudly flies on the list of those who have climbed to the tops of all 14 eight-thousanders on the planet. Vladyslav's journey in the mountains is a story of courage, determination, and endless love for the summit. Having climbed to "deadly heights" without using additional oxygen (in cylinders), his achievements inspire beginner and professional climbers around the world, and motivate them to try their hand at mountain routes.

Achievements of Vladislav Terziul in the world of mountaineering

A geologist by training, he started mountaineering at the age of 21, in 1981. His first ascent was a training climb to Mount Pitsirdag (2840 m) in the Caucasus region, where the young geologist took his first steps in the world of mountain peaks. And it was this experience that changed the rest of his life, because he realized that he could no longer imagine the meaning of life without mountains. Then there were sports training camps in the Pamirs, Tien Shan...

Terziul's expeditions always had one unique feature: he categorically refused to use oxygen tanks. He believed that this made climbing a real challenge and allowed him to feel united with nature to the fullest.

This is despite the fact that most climbers without oxygen do not even dare to touch the height of the Himalayan peaks. In the 1990s, the daredevil began working as part of international expeditions, some of which he organized on his own. His team used to joke that only clouds, jet planes, and Vladyslav himself felt comfortable in thin air. However, he surprised not only with his physical endurance 😉

The guy could create comfort in the harshest conditions of the mountains. Geological hikes helped him to master a mega-useful thing... a bath! By heating stones on a fire and covering them with an awning, he turned cold slopes into a real oasis of warmth. This "ritual" not only helped him to relax after difficult transitions, but also gave him strength for further trials, turning the nature of the mountains into a place where he could restore energy and feel comfortable. He always climbed the peaks with a minimal set of equipment, but always took his camera with him.

Useful article: "What to take on a hike - equipment for a hike in the mountains".

The Himalayas became a real test for Vladyslav Terzyul, but it was here that he achieved immortal fame. His ascent is an example of courage, skill, and dedication to a dream:

1. 1993 – climbing Kanchenjunga (8586 m) - the first expedition to the eight-thousanders;
2. 1994 – climbing the eight-thousander K2 (8611 m) - after which three participants, unfortunately, did not return;

The next 3 were part of a large Polish team from Gdansk:

1. 1995 – climbing to the Broad Peak, Forpik (8028 m), along the western and northern edges of the ridge;
2. 1996 – сходження на Гашербрум II (8035 м), класичний маршрут;
3. 1996 – storming the summit of Annapurna I (8091 m), northwest ridge, new route;
4. 1997 – climbing to Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Diamir Wall along the Kinshofer route;
5. 1999 – climbing Everest (8848 m) as part of The First Ukrainian National Expedition of Mountaineers;
6. 2000 – storming of Shishabangma, Central (8013 m), the classic route;
7. 2000 – climbing Cho Oyu (8188 m) - he did it himself;
8. 2001 – ascent to Manaslu (8163 m), southeast ridge, new route;
9. 2002 – climbing Lhotse(8516 м);
10. 2002 – storming the top of Dhaulagiri (8167 м);
11. 2003 – Гашербрум I (8080 м);
12. 2004 – Makalu (8485 m), along the western ridge. This ascent was the last one in his life and immortalized Terziul's name in history forever.

It is no secret that Vladyslav was not credited with 2 eight-thousanders because he mistakenly climbed the wrong peaks: in the case of Shisha Pangma, he reached the central peak, and on Broad Peak he did not follow the ridge to the main peak because of false information received from the base camp. In both cases, his altitude exceeded 8000 meters. The man did not deny the "non-credits" and planned to correct his "mistakes". His principle was as follows: "I try to do everything I do as best I can."

Timetable of routes in Nepal with KULUAR

If you admire such strong-minded people and dream of testing yourself on mountain peaks, think about the Himalayas. Trekking in Nepal, including trekking to the base camp of Everest or Annapurna, will not only give you incredible views, but also open the door to your own nature.

Together with the KULUAR club, you can take your first steps into the world of heavenly peaks. We have routes for climbers of different skill levels, and experienced team leaders will take care of your safety and comfort.

Vladyslav Terzyul believed that mountains change people for the better. And maybe your next hike will be the first step towards this change 😉

Makalu - the last peak

The story of the famous Ukrainian climber is full of heroism, unbreakable will and unique achievements. The name of Vladyslav Terziul is inscribed in golden letters in the chronicle of climbing, he sought to surpass the impossible. But the fifth highest mountain in the world took him away forever...

Makalu is unforgiving of mistakes: steep slopes and unstable weather conditions test even the most experienced. Vladyslav chose this peak to complete his program.

In 2004, Terzyul set out for the Himalayas and his goal was to climb this most dangerous eight-thousander. The climb was the culmination of his long career. The climber faced all possible challenges: from strong winds to critical oxygen levels. However, as always, Terziyul showed his skill and will by reaching the summit. It was a triumph of his technical training and physical endurance. However, reaching the 8485-meter challenge took his life. After a successful ascent, he tragically died during the descent, probably due to exhaustion or health problems caused by the extreme conditions. His death was a great loss for the entire mountaineering world and Ukraine in particular. However, the legacy of this man lives on in his achievements and is an example for new generations.

In memory of Vladyslav Terzyul - books, films

The stories about Vladyslav Terzyul are passed from one person to another. They live on in the hearts of his friends, colleagues, and everyone who was inspired by his courage. He is a role model for young climbers. Whether on expeditions, in stories around the campfire or in mountaineering clubs, there is always a place for Terzyul's memories.

In 2015, a book was dedicated to him. The title itself, written by sports journalists Oleksiy Honcharuk, Natalia Polyakova and Oleg Sytnyk, "Tie Your Knot" reveals the key principles that guided Terzyul in his expeditions and life. It alludes to the need for care and skill in every endeavor, as it is critical in mountaineering, where every knot can be a matter of life and death.

The studio also created films: the eponymous Reporter by the Odesa studio and "Vladyslav Terzyul. Life Line". He is currently planning a biographical feature documentary about the climber.

In addition, his name has become part of sports and cultural initiatives. Commemorative events, photo exhibitions, and lectures dedicated to Vladyslav Terziul help younger generations learn about him and adopt his philosophy. So, do it yourself 😉