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A unique program that will allow you to test yourself on two seven-thousanders of Asia at once - Peak Lenin and Peak Khan Tengri. The boundless snows of Peak Lenin and the perfect pyramid of Khan Tengri in one journey - what could be more exciting! Moreover, the program is led by one of our most experienced guides, Oleksandr Pavlov, who knows the peaks of the Pamir and Tian Shan firsthand. The first part of the program is the ascent of Peak Lenin via the classic route from the northern side. The route is technically simple and perfectly suited as a first seven-thousand-meter experience. In our case, it also serves as acclimatization before a more serious goal. After Lenin, we travel to the East of Kyrgyzstan, from where we will fly by helicopter to the Khan Tengri Base Camp. Khan Tengri is the northernmost seven-thousander on the planet, with a harsh character and many difficult routes. Even the classic ascent route is full of steep sections. Prior experience of ascents above 5000 meters is mandatory. This trip is only suitable for experienced participants. If you feel ready for such an adventure - join us!
IMPORTANT! There are 2 classic routes to Peak Khan Tengri: from the North and from the South. On the Southern route, there are sections where avalanches and ice collapses are possible, regardless of the route's condition or time of day. To ensure maximum possible safety, we have chosen the route from the north.
If there are no available dates for the Peak Lenin + Khan Tengri route, we offer you to climb Peak Lenin (7134 m), ascents are conducted every summer.
Our route includes proper acclimatization, which allows the body to adjust to altitude and increases the chances of a successful ascent.
If needed, we will help with gear selection and purchasing flight tickets.
In the first part of the program, participants will be able to improve their mountaineering skills needed for the summit climb.
The program includes reserve days in case of bad weather, which significantly increases the chances of a successful ascent of Peak Lenin and Khan Tengri Peak.
We do not cancel or reschedule groups. If the manager has given the go-ahead to buy a ticket, you can safely purchase it. The program will not be cancelled through our fault.
Our manager has taken part in many ascents and will provide you with expert advice.
Experienced Kuluar club team leaders, who have repeatedly been to the Pamirs, will accompany participants throughout the entire program.
Over the years of the club's operation, we have developed an algorithm that allows us to organize programs as efficiently as possible. You can see this for yourself by applying to take part.
Over 12,000 participants have already joined Kuluar, and 97.8% of them were satisfied. We're confident you will be too!
A chance to significantly save on gear by going on a climb with Kuluar.
Group meeting in the first half of the day in the city of Osh. This is a tourist city from which the ascent of the most popular seven-thousander - Lenin Peak - begins. Here you can buy any necessary items before the expedition. After gathering, we transfer to the base camp with the fairytale name - Edelweiss Meadow. We will arrive after dark, so we'll be able to admire the full beauty of the place in the morning. This is where civilization ends and harsh mountain life begins. Of course, the camp is equipped with a bathhouse, shower, toilets, kitchens, a café, and yurts. We will be staying in a tent camp.
Today we will dedicate to acclimatization and getting to know the local area. It's the perfect time to look around, enjoy the scenery, and take the first photos. The base camp meadow is located among multicolored rocky peaks covered with snow caps - Petrovsky Peak, XIX Party Congress Peak, and the most important one - Lenin Peak! After breakfast, we will take a radial walk to Lukovaya Glade and climb to Travelers' Pass, from where a beautiful view of Lenin Peak opens up.
We will dedicate another day to acclimatization. Today we will climb Petrovsky Peak at 4700 m. As we ascend to the summit, we will see how the climate zones change, starting from alpine meadows, passing through mountain tundra and mountain desert, to eternal snows. Here we will get good practice walking in crampons and crossing snowy slopes. The whole hike will take about 6 hours, and we will be at the summit by lunchtime. Here we can have lunch and enjoy the surrounding landscapes and the view of fast-moving clouds. They are certainly worth the effort we put into the climb. A few hours later, we're back at base camp. In the evening, we will practice knot-tying techniques, prepare climbing gear, and discuss the technical aspects of the expedition.
We ascend to Camp 1, where we will spend the next 2 nights. We need to gain 800 m in altitude. The route passes through Babaki Meadow. These fluffy animals run around, whistle to each other, and pay no attention to passing people. Next, we climb to Travelers' Pass. Strong winds often blow at the pass, so be prepared for this. After the pass, we descend slightly and walk along a flat path to the Lenin Glacier. Camp 1 is located on the moraine of the glacier, where we will spend the night.
Another day for acclimatization. Today we will go up to a peak at an altitude of 5000 m. It will help us adapt to the altitude more easily, and the faster we get used to it, the easier it will be to continue and climb Lenin Peak. In the evening, we will work with our gear and discuss the technical aspects of the ascent. Today we need to go to bed early, as tomorrow awaits an early wake-up.
We get up at 3-4 a.m. to cross the risky sections of the glacier as early as possible, before it starts melting in the sun. We move in rope teams of 4-5 people, wearing crampons. Near the north wall, a difficult section along a steep snow slope begins. Crevasses may be encountered along the way. Next, we approach a huge plateau that climbers call the "frying pan." It's very hot there, as the sun's rays not only burn from above but also reflect off the white ice surrounding us, hitting the skin. It's important to stock up on water, good sunscreen, and sunglasses with maximum UV protection. At the camp, we will set up tents and prepare for tomorrow's ascent to 5800 m.
Gradual acclimatization is the key to a successful summit. Today we will again walk up to an altitude of 5800 m. Our task is to move calmly, so as not to overload the body, and to acclimatize. We enjoy the views and the walk.
Today we will climb to the last camp, Camp 3, from which the ascent of Lenin Peak begins. We will walk for about 5 hours and gain 800 m in altitude. We will spend the night at 6100 m. The route goes along the ridge over Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m). We descend to the saddle where Camp 3 is located. For an ordinary person going through acclimatization, this is not so easy. “Diamox” or similar medications will help the body adapt to the altitude. Don't forget to bring them.
We've gained altitude and dropped off the necessary gear at Camp 3. Time to rest and gather strength before the summit push. Today we descend to Camp 1 to recover. Here it's easy to breathe, and you can even bathe. Good rest is the key to success)
We continue our descent to Base Camp. Walking here is easy, with green grass all around and stunning views. In the evening, we can visit the sauna.
We use this day as a spare in case of bad weather or other reasons affecting the acclimatization program. If everything goes according to plan, we can play volleyball on a specially equipped court, take a walk around the surroundings and take photos, and spend time actively. We won't just sit around, as it's easier for the body to adapt this way.
There are many lakes located around the Achik-Tash valley. We can swim in them and recover after gaining altitude, take photos, and that's exactly what we will do.
We climb up to Camp 1. After a good adaptation and rest, we can head to the summit. Only upward, only forward.
We climb up to Camp 2. An altitude above 5000 m feels a bit easier than a few days ago - breathing is easier and less effort is needed to take each step. We will spend the night on the glacier moraine at Camp 2.
The last move before the summit push. We climb over Razdelnaya Peak to Camp 3. Our task is to go to bed early and get a good rest. Tomorrow is an important day.
Today we need to gain 1000 m to reach the summit of Lenin Peak. We wake up at night, at 3 a.m. or earlier, to be on the route by 4 a.m. For breakfast, we'll have hot tea and a sweet bar - fast carbohydrates work well at altitude. From the start of the climb, we have 300 m of steep ascent ahead, followed by a narrow passage along an ice-and-snow ridge. Here you need to be especially careful. After it, we will reach a snow plateau. It seems to have neither end nor edge. Once we cross the plateau, only 200 m will remain to the summit. Calmly, gathering all our strength, we will climb to the summit of Lenin Peak at 7134 m. Congratulations! Here we will rest a little, take photos, admire the views of the Pamir mountains, and begin our descent to Camp 3. The ascent to the summit will take about 10-12 hours, and the descent - about 5. The earlier we start the descent, the safer it will be. We spend the night at an altitude of 6100 m at Camp 3.
Mountains don't always welcome climbers with good weather, so sometimes you need to wait for a weather window to make the climb. That's why we've allocated an extra day, to give us a better chance of successfully completing the whole route. If luck is on our side, we'll use this day for excursions around the city of Osh.
We pack up all our gear and descend to Camp 1. Here we can celebrate a successful climb and share our emotions and impressions of the adventure, since there wasn't much time for that at the summit. We might also get to meet other climbers who have already made their ascent or are about to set off on theirs.
We descend to Edelweiss Meadow. Here we'll find sunshine, green grass, lakes, and clean, rich air. Today we'll prepare a festive dinner with traditional Kyrgyz dishes and enjoy the comforts of civilization.
We return to Osh. We'll have half a day to walk through this ancient city and see its landmarks. Climbing Peak Lenin is an excellent achievement for anyone's collection. There will be a chance to share your impressions with your loved ones, as you'll finally have a connection. This marks the halfway point of our journey. Participants who only wanted to climb Peak Lenin will fly home tomorrow, while we fly on to Kyrgyzstan to continue our adventure.
Bishkek is the capital of Kyrgyzstan and the country's largest city. Here we'll have a chance to take a short walk and prepare for our next climb — Khan Tengri.
In the morning we head to the city of Karakol. Today we rest after the long journey and buy any remaining supplies. After lunch we continue to Maida-Adyr base camp, crossing the Chon-Ashu pass at 3822m. We'll stay here in the base camp's cottages.
Have you ever flown in a helicopter? No? Now's the perfect time! In the morning we'll fly to Khan Tengri Base Camp on the Southern Inylchek Glacier at 4100m. This is where our ascent of Khan Tengri Peak begins via the north route. We'll stay in tents.
From Base Camp, passing Camp 1, we climb up to Camp 2. Luckily, the acclimatization from Peak Lenin allows us to move faster up the mountain. We'll move along fixed ropes already in place. The slope is steep, so you need to be very careful on the route and keep all your gear close, as items can easily slide down the slope. Right before the second camp there's a steep, ice-covered rise. We gather our strength and climb up to our overnight spot. We set up the tents and rest. Our reward for such a long day will be a pink sunset over the Tien Shan mountains.
The route to the third camp leads through a steep snowfield that turns into a rocky ridge, followed by Chapaev's Shoulder and a snow dome. This climb is long and quite difficult, with a sharp gain in elevation, dry air, and shortness of breath due to lack of oxygen. But once you see the snow dome, you know that beyond it lies the descent to Camp 3, where we'll spend the night. We camp between Khan Tengri Peak and Chapaev Peak.
The route to the fourth camp leads through a rock wall. We ascend along fixed ropes using a jumar. The trek to Camp 4 will take a few hours, and we'll be able to have a half-day rest before the summit push. Few climbers stop at Camp 4 — the summit attempt is usually made from the previous, 3rd camp. Memorial plaques are located here.
We wake up early, have breakfast and head to the mountain. The elevation gain is not very large, but the altitude and harsh conditions of the northernmost seven-thousander make themselves known. The climb begins from a rock wall. After passing several rope sections on the rock walls, we come out onto a long snow ridge. This is the finishing stretch on the way to the summit, which will take more than an hour to walk. We move the whole time along fixed ropes, using a jumar. And here it is, the summit, from which unreal views open up all around. After resting a bit and having some tea, we begin the descent to Camp 3 on the col. The descent must be done very carefully.
Today we will descend the already familiar route to Base Camp at 4100 m. You need to be very careful and focused, as the slope has a large gradient. Here you can lose part of your gear or your backpack if you don't keep an eye on your things. But a feast awaits us at base camp. We will rest, share impressions and relax. Now we can enjoy, rejoice and finally say - we climbed, we're back, everything is fine!
We allocate a few days in case of bad weather or unsatisfactory well-being of the participants. After the ascent of Peak Lenin, the body should have adapted well to the altitude, but sometimes a day of rest is needed before the summit push. 3 reserve days will significantly increase our chances of success. If everything goes according to plan, we will rest and enjoy these reserve days at base camp, Karakol or Bishkek.
We wait for the helicopter that will take us to the transit camp of Maida-Adyr. For the last time we will be able to look at the mountains of Tien Shan from a bird's eye view and thank the mountains for letting us in and letting us go home. We rest in the camp's cottages.
We travel to Karakol by chartered transport. This trip will take about 4-5 hours, so we will still have time to walk around this city and rest.
We return to Bishkek. We celebrate, rest and prepare for the return home.
And so our expedition to 2 seven-thousanders at once - Peak Lenin and Khan Tengri - has come to an end. Over 36 days we became a close-knit team, you could say a mountain family, and we really don't want to part ways. But we are sure that we will meet again somewhere on the trail! See you soon!
Attention! Ascending summits above 7000 meters is a potentially life-threatening undertaking. Any mistake or carelessness can have negative consequences. Among the main risk factors are: being at high altitude - altitude sickness, low temperatures - frostbite, steep slopes - falling from a great height. For us, your safety is the most important thing, and experienced guides will do everything possible to ensure you return alive, healthy and with the summit conquered. They are not responsible in the event of any of the risks materializing. Each individual participant, understanding and realizing all possible risks, independently decides to take part in this ascent program for Peak Lenin and Peak Khan Tengri and bears full responsibility for their actions or inaction.
The decision on the possibility or impossibility of continuing the ascent is made exclusively by the guides and is mandatory, not subject to discussion. We are interested in having as many of our participants as possible reach the summit, but safety always comes first.
Full payment for the program is made to the guide on the first day of the trip in US dollars.
To book a spot in the group, you need to make a deposit of 600 dollars. You can do this by contacting us or through the payment form on the website >>
Important! Conditions for the return of the deposit in case of refusal to participate in the program:
In case of leaving the route, the money is not refunded.
Depending on weather conditions, the condition and general wishes of the group, the instructor has the right to make changes to the route. The instructor's decisions are mandatory and not subject to discussion.
Ukrainian citizens do not need a visa to visit Kyrgyzstan. It is enough to provide a valid international passport.
Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return date — please check this before buying flights.
Important! To obtain a permit for the border zone, you must send us a scanned copy of your international passport no later than one month before the start of the expedition.
To participate in the ascent, you must not have any of the diseases on this list >>
The summit was first described by the Russian traveler A.P. Fedchenko, who in 1871 reached the Alai Valley and saw the Zaalai Range rising above it. He named the highest peak Peak Kaufmann. In 1928, after the Pamir expedition, the mountain was renamed Peak Lenin. Three German members of this expedition decided to make the ascent. On September 25, 1928, mountaineers climbed to the summit of Peak Lenin for the first time in history.
Today, more than a dozen ascent routes have been developed, from different sides and of different difficulty categories. The simplest from a technical point of view is the classic route from the north side, first climbed in 1954 under the leadership of V. Kovalev. Since then, much has changed, and a whole infrastructure of services has formed at the foot of the mountain. And while 50 years ago only a few reached the summit, now more than a hundred people reach it per year. But this figure is only a fifth of all those who attempted the climb. Others were prevented by weather, altitude sickness, lack of acclimatization or physical fitness, or lack of confidence in their abilities.
There are no direct flights from Ukraine, so you need to fly via Bishkek or other cities. Tickets start from $450. From Osh airport you can get to the city by minibuses №107 and №142, running from 07:00 to 21:00, costing 11 som (0.15 USD). You can also use a taxi around the clock, which costs about 300 som (4.5 USD).
To find the best flight options, use the form below:
To take part in the program, you need good insurance. Please don't neglect this point. For some participants, it has saved thousands of dollars. You can find our recommendations on getting insurance here: "Insurance for Kuluar trip participants"
The group meets in the city of Osh. We will inform all participants of the exact time and place of the meeting approximately 7-10 days before the start of the trip. Since the program ends in the city of Bishkek, we recommend buying an international flight to and from Bishkek, and getting to Osh by domestic flight. We will send all the necessary information and the guide's contacts to your email. Don't forget to check your inbox (and possibly your spam folder)!
July-August is considered the most favorable season for climbing, as cloudiness and fog are rare in the region during these months. It is for these months that we plan our ascents.
One of the most important conditions for a successful ascent is the weather. It is often the weather that determines whether you reach the summit or not. The climate on Peak Lenin is characterized by large temperature differences. During the day it can be +5, while at night it can drop to -30 and below. It often happens that it's quite warm in the sun, with a positive temperature, while just a few meters away in the shade it can be around 0. Squally winds mostly occur during the day, calming down by nightfall.
At Base Camp and Camp 1 we stay overnight in heated yurts. The camps have electricity, a dining area, hot showers, toilets, a sauna, and satellite communication (there is no mobile signal on the route). At the high-altitude Camps 2 and 3 we stay in tents. Food is cooked on burners for the whole group. At the lower camps there will be full hot meals, while at the higher camps - nutritious freeze-dried meals.
If you don't have your own equipment, you can rent it. Take your backpack and sleeping bag in your home city; check availability of tent spots with us. Crampons, an ice axe, and harnesses can be rented either in your home city or at the starting point.
Good physical fitness is required to participate in the program, and it is mandatory (!) to have experience of prolonged stays at altitudes of around 5,000 m. Before the ascent, 3-4 months prior to the start, be sure to include running in your schedule, 2-3 times a week (if you haven't been actively running before for some reason). This will prepare your body for high physical loads and increase its endurance.
Additional expenses: porter services depending on altitude – $7-15/kg per day; cargo transportation by horses between camps – $1-1.5/kg.
*Please note: it is not the manager's task to select an individual flight for each participant. The manager provides general recommendations based on their experience and shares other participants' flight details so you can fly together. Choosing and purchasing a flight ticket convenient for you is the responsibility of each participant. If you would like the manager to purchase a flight ticket for you, book a hotel, or arrange an additional excursion, please review the terms on the page: additional services.
