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How to move from hot summer to cool autumn or a track to Troll's Tongue 2.08.17

Author: Tatiana Cheremis, 39, Ukraine, Kharkov
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I planned the trek to Troll's Tongue back in February, right after the winter Hoverla and Petros. It was my first, so to speak, test hike with Kuluar. I liked the organization, and I realized that with these guys you can safely go hiking abroad. I wanted something unusual. Norway seemed to me a sufficiently original choice, and I was not mistaken. In August, when Kharkov was aching from a 35-degree heat, we plunged into the coolness of the northern beauty.

I bought the tickets in advance, about 5 months in advance. The flight from Kiev to Bergen and back cost $270. As it turned out later, it was about half cheaper than if I had bought tickets before the trip. So, my #1 advice is to buy your tickets as early as possible.

We took a bus from the airport to the hostel. It’s a quick option, but not cheap. It’s better to take the streetcar. The group of 8 people was quite interesting.  Geography was as follows: Peter, Moscow, Kharkov, Poltava, Lvov, a Ukrainian living in Italy, and a native American. So our conversation was not only about hiking, but we also discussed the peculiarities of life in Italy and America and got a good practice of English. Some were active speakers and some were listeners.


After getting to know each other and getting a bite to eat, we went for a walk. Bergen won me over! Narrow stone-paved streets, colorful houses, luxurious yachts and the old part of the city with last century’s shopping malls are in harmony and give the city its unique charm.  I had the feeling of being surrounded by scenery. So everything looked toy-painted-perfect! Every little thing, whether it was the flowers near the house, the mailbox, or the doorknob, everything was tastefully done. In short, I experienced aesthetic ecstasy! Unusually, it is light until 23.00, so we can walk and take pictures for a long, long time. What we actually did.
The next day we drove to Odda, where the trail to Troll’s Tongue begins. We went there by bus, took a ferry, and drove through tunnels in the mountains. The three hour trip flew by like a blink of an eye. The scenery was fascinating, the weather, as well as on all the following days, was changing before our eyes, and we were absorbed in the energy of northern nature and never tired to admire it!Мостик
The trek itself, as for me, is not physically difficult and let you not be frightened, indicated on the site “high complexity”. The main inconvenience is the incessant rain, as a consequence wet clothes and the impossibility to be dried by the fire, as there is simply nothing to make it out of.  The first part of the route from the start to Trolltunga is about 11 km without steep climbing and with good weather is accessible even to children, which we met a lot. Trolltunga- very popular trail, lots of people and it was even a little disappointing. Stones are laid out in neat steps, bridges over streams, in short there is no place even to get your shoes dirty. We came to the Tongue quite early, about 16.00. There were a lot of people, wanted to take pictures, so have patience, but do not delay for the morning. Advice#2 – it is better to make a photo in the evening and in the rain and in the morning, so there was something to choose from. And God forbid not to be left without the main photo of the hike.

Язык Тролля

The overnight stay on Tongue was both beautiful and challenging for me.  We set up our tent with a gorgeous view. But while we were taking pictures, I got pretty wet and cold.  The altitude is 1300, it’s around zero at night, and my sleeping bag is at +8. In short, I got sick, and the rest of my trip was severely compromised by this fact.
Ночевка на Языку Тролля

Advice #3.  Be very careful with your equipment. Rain in Norway, it is not the same as the rain we have. It does not stop raining all day, or even a few days, soaked even “waterproof” jackets and pants. Be sure to take a raincoat or poncho, a sleeping bag with a comfort temperature no higher than 0 and good waterproof hard boots. Yes, that’s boots, not sneakers, may they be thrice as cool company! More than once my feet have slipped off wet rocks and turned out unnaturally. And trekking poles necessarily!!!  Oh, how my fellow “pieters” suffered without them.
Most hikers return the same day back, the same way they came. We spent the night on Tongue, and the next morning went to the observation point – Preykestulen. A short time was clear and managed to take a couple of good photos, as well as to enjoy the wonderful views. From there we went as if bypassing the lake, looping our route. The more athletic part of the hike began. There were no more trampled paths and staggered stones.  We enjoyed the silence and solitude. We descended to two lakes lurking among the rocky mountain peaks, passed several beautiful dams.Дамба

The day was physically and mentally challenging. We walked about 23 km in the rain over wet and slippery rocks. The scenery eventually became boring, and there was no goal ahead that would motivate us to walk. After all, Troll’s Tongue was already behind us. The guide entertained us with different games, but there was only one thought: the sooner we would get to some warm and dry place. In my opinion, it would be more logical if the track was in the opposite direction.
Walking on wet rocks in the rain, with occasional mud and looking back at the rocky ledges, snowfields and powerful waterfalls of dizzying beauty, the guys and I discussed what associations Norway evokes. Who is she, a man or a woman? Opinions are divided. I think that Norway – is a tough and brutal Viking, proud, beautiful and unapproachable.

Advice #4. On the way back, stay another day in Bergen. Be sure to take the funicular up to the observation deck, where you can see Bergen in all its glory. Only take the ticket up; it’s better to walk down – it’s economical and a great way to get around. You can visit the local aquarium or just wander around. When else will you be here?


Perhaps my story is a bit chaotic. Perhaps this is due to the abundance of contradictory feelings. And nevertheless, I will try to summarize. The peculiarity and advantage of the track to the Troll’s Tongue I consider a successful mix of urban tourism and camping life. During this week I got a whole palette of new and diverse impressions, which will remain in my heart forever.
I want to thank Dmitry Primachenko guide, manager Oksana and club “Kuluar” for helping everything good to happen in this hike and prevent any mishaps. This was my third trip with Couloir, but not the last.
На тропе
And to anyone who is reading this review and for some reason doubts whether to go camping, I say: “Definitely, it is worth it! If you are resting only all inclusive, but do you rest at all? Rest is, after all, above all a change of scenery.  Hike even a 3-5 days, this is a whole life full of emotions, new experiences, accomplishments! So do not deprive yourself of it!  Just try. Let it be the Carpathians or the Crimea. There are proposals for different pockets and preferences. Travel! Discover! Live!

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