There are different options for climbing Kilimanjaro. There are 7 main routes, one, I think, even with an overnight stay in lodges. Our route was Umbwe, the unofficial name of which is “double whiskey”. It is considered the most difficult and is recommended for experienced climbers because of the sharp rise in altitude.
The advantage of Umbwe is that it is only 37 km long and we were alone on the route for 2 days. We are me, Anya, Ruslan, Volodymyr, niche team leader Anna + 21 people accompanying us.
And here I would like to single out the organization, because it is excellent. The porters carried our heavy things, tents, and food. They set up and took down the tents, heated water for us to wash. In this sense, climbing Kili is a thrill. We carried only our backpacks with 2-3 liters of water, a change of clothes and some other small things.
Our climb started at an altitude of 1800 meters and the first day we walked through the jungle. Everyone was cheerful and full of energy, because we had no idea what was ahead of us.
Day 2. We wake up at 6:30. We put on our wet boots and in an hour we are on the way. We leave the jungle and enter the bushes. The weather is great! But I don't feel very well.
The uniqueness of climbing Kilimanjaro is that you pass through 4 climatic zones.
At an altitude of 3700 meters I had some kind of unexpected hysteria. It was so hard for me that when it was time to take a break, I started to cry - either from happiness or fatigue, I don't know.
At this stage, I still don't realize that I'm getting altitude sickness. They say it's impossible to prepare for it, and to prevent it, you need to drink a lot of water. I poured at least 3 liters into myself, but after 3700 I still started to feel weak, headache, and nausea.
By the way, it was cold to sleep, even when my body was warm - I could shake and shiver. And then there was insomnia! There was such a buzzing in my temples that it prevented me from falling asleep, plus you could hear someone vomiting at midnight (yes, that's the romance of the high mountains). My heart was jumping out of my chest, my resting heart rate was 100 beats/min. I measured my saturation a couple of times - the lowest I recorded was 84%. Despite such a strong physical activity and calorie consumption, I was not hungry.
And our ascent continues and the route is fantastic!
First, we climbed the Barranco Great Wall, where we got into a real traffic jam. Then we had a sit-down with a view of the Kibo volcano at 4200 meters. Sun, music, lots of people, such a festive vibe.
Morning of the fourth day. Today we go to the Barafu Camp assault camp, at an altitude of 4673 meters.
We gained +630 meters and this transition went well. The altitude was gently rising, the weather was changing, and so was our clothes - from hats and fleece to T-shirts and hats. At 11.00 we were already in the camp. We drank tea and immediately started an acclimatization hike to the Kosovo camp, at an altitude of 4800 meters.
It seems that even through my glasses I can see that I feel bad. It's freezing, I feel sick, it's hard to breathe, my head is square.
After returning to the assault camp, we had lunch and at 15.00 I was already in my tent. I need to rest, but I can't sleep. I had different thoughts in my head, but the main one was that I couldn't do it, I had already come so far, it was enough...
We leave at 12.00 am. Headlamps are flashing everywhere, the camp turns into a swarm of fireflies. Let's go. For the first 3 hours I was even fine. But after that, it started to get tough: I started to pass out from lack of oxygen, my body did not obey me, we walked almost without rest, stopping every hour only to drink water. Before dawn it gets really cold. We put on our down jackets and warm mittens and continue on. Step by step, we are slowly making our way to the top. Around 6 a.m., my nerves started to fail and my brain started to shut down. There are no words to describe this state, it's something on the edge. I seem to be here, but everything is like a dream.
We are at 5756 Stella Point. I am overcome with emotion (even as I write this). Everything around is so beautiful and cold that it takes my breath away. But we have to keep going to the top, it seems so close.
At 7.13 we held the flag of Ukraine at an altitude of 5895 meters - Uhuru Peak. The summit! We did it!
We were very lucky with the weather: the dazzling snows of Kilimanjaro sparkled in the sun, the wind did not knock us down, good visibility, but we had to go down.
The descent consisted of 3 stages in 2 days. First, we went down to the assault camp - it took 3 hours. I was so sick - I was vomiting and fell on the powder. If it wasn't for our team leader Anna, I don't know how long it would have taken me to get down. She took me under her arm and we reached the camp very quickly. It is symbolic that on March 8 I was in the company of strong and brave women.
The hardest 10 hours of my life. Everything is reflected in my face. 6 days without a shower, normal sleep and food. At the time, I don't realize how cool, tough and strong I am. This is me! And I don't hide my condition on purpose, I don't just show a pretty picture. I want this story to be true, complete, and alive.
A short rest after the assault. Zombie state and 2 hours of descent to Millenium Camp at an altitude of 3950 meters.
The last night in the tent, the altitude is almost not felt anymore. I slept for the first time.
Day 6. In 4 hours we dropped 2300 meters. And at Mweka Gate we left the last entries in the journal. Officially, the climb is over!