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Another Norway - report from the hike

Author: Taras Pozdnii, 26, Ukraine, Bila Tserkva
Teamleader: Taras Pozdnii
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Hello all! My memories of my last trip to Norway were not the most pleasant - eternal rain, excessively heavy backpack, gray scenery. However, the abundance of mushrooms and blueberries was very pleasant. There was unreal plenty of them! And it was delicious. This time everything was different.

A group of 10 people met at the Oslo train station and headed to the campsite. Half went with me by bus, and the other half decided to save money and go on foot. I must say, that they lost the time – they came only 10 minutes later than us. I tell everyone, that it almost never rains in Norway, mostly fine drizzle. And then the sky comes down with a real downpour – a wall of water. It turns out it happens)) Fortunately, it quickly passed and did not interfere with dinner preparation and walks in the park. The first evening – an evening of making friends. Everyone had long and interesting stories. Of course, we were especially pleased with Sanya, who alone last year visited 24 countries and for whom Norway was 82nd in the overall ranking. What a beauty!


The hike begins – move to Gjendesheim

Early rise. The bus is waiting for us at 10:15, and we have to have time to eat, walk and buy gas for the trip. The stores open at 10 sharp, so we have only 15 minutes to buy everything and run to the bus stop. We wait under the store before it opens, quickly buy gas, plates, spoons (which we forgot at home) and run to the bus station. We made it. Hurrah.

In Giendesheim we find out that the boat to Memoruba will not be until tomorrow morning, because the season is low and the schedule is different. It doesn’t suit us, so we go by the last year’s program. We are spending the night in a wonderful camping on the lake shore. The hike along Jotunheimen has started.

первая стоянка

Here it is – the true Norway!

In the morning the rain let us eat, but we had to pack in the tents. In my new ultralight (consequently small) it turned out to be quite difficult to do this.

начало пути

We pack quickly, get on the trail in time. Half a day of good weather – enjoy the majestic scenery of Norway. It is hard to walk – the rise and loaded backpacks make themselves felt. After lunch, the weather gradually deteriorates. Fog goes down, the wind picks up, it rains. Unexpectedly, almost steep snow wall appeared ahead of us. Very unexpected. But the steps of the path go through it and the ascent is not really difficult. Drenched and tired we came down to the Glitterheim shelter. We decided to rent a cabin for the group, there was no desire to sleep in tents in the rain. We have a great evening, and in the morning the sun is smiling on us.

утреннее солнышко

Closer and closer to the top

Rocks, rocks… there are especially many of them today. We reach Spiterstulen in the evening. This is a large mountain shelter, which is located below the highest peak of Norway and all of northern Europe – Halheppigen. The height of the mountain is 2475m. The weather is good, we spend the night in tents. Tomorrow we are going to ascent, and now we have a rest in a cafe and play uno.

Day 5 – Ascent to Galheppigen.

A sunny morning gives hope for a great day. The hope, which is destined to come true to the fullest! The ascent and the summit pleased us with beautiful views, but the descent was much more interesting. This year there was much more snow than last year, and for almost a third of the descent we scrambled happily on our heels, squealing and smiling with all our mouths open! When else will we get a chance to ride asses off the highest peak of Northern Europe in the middle of summer?

спуск с вершины

We also made a snowman. Or rather, Seryoga did, while we were playing snowballs)

снеговик в августе

On our return we took our things to the drying room, and those who wanted to go to the sauna for a steam bath. A great, full day that brought us a lot of joy!

Trekking to frozen Lake Leirvatnet and Mount Kirkja

It was a fun day. The weather was of average lousiness – along most of the way it rained a lot, sometimes very nasty. It’s good, that we managed to make a pause and a snack, when there was nothing dripping from the sky. And it was quite bearable to walk under rain. We were impressed by several small fords with icy water. Very refreshing!

We ascent a small pass and came to a big lake, a little less than completely covered with ice – Leirvatnet. We decide to go to the huts, and there we will decide who will spend the night in a tent and who will stay in a cabin. The cost of 300 crowns per person scares away almost everyone, but 4 of the group still choose warm rooms. The clouds part as we pitch our tents, revealing a view of the setting sun, whose rays gently illuminate the harsh Kirkja. The scenery is unparalleled and the evening is wonderful.

отличный вечер!

Going down to the forest zone.

Everyone is happy – there will be no climbs today! But the descent was not easy either. The first part of the trail goes on a dirt road, playing dunettes and other games as we go.

We come out to the dam, where the road ends and the trail begins. It is not a pleasure to walk down the slippery stones and swamp. But it’s already green and beautiful all around. With the drop in altitude, the snow gave way to greenery, which is pleasantly pleasing to the eye. We spend the night in a nice clearing on the bank of the river.

домик с крышей со мха

Today we have a real bonfire! A bonfire, can you imagine? =))

Learning to walk on stilts!

In the morning it was drizzling rain, so we slept an hour longer than usual. Sleep well – it’s always good).

When the rain stopped, I got up to cook breakfast.  I check campfire – there are still coals. I throw a couple of logs. We always cook food with gas and make a fire more for the soul. While the water boils, all participants wake up. A fire is lit – it always makes us happy, not only in the evening!

Let’s go out. At first we have long rise and then beautiful valley and abrupt descent. We start to meet mushrooms – it means that evening menu will be more varied than usual. Quickly we arrive at a glade near huts with roofs covered with moss – Vettismorki. With Cyril we go mushrooming, find a couple of ceps and boletuses. Mushrooms much less than last year, but enough for us. Near the camp there are stilts, we take them with us – the evening entertainment is guaranteed!


It turned out that Seryoga was a master of stiltwork, while the others had more difficulty with it. In the evening we had a campfire, porridge with mushrooms and games.

Back to civilization

The last active day of our trekking in Jotunheimen National Park. Shortly after leaving, the noise of falling water can be heard, which means that the Vettisfossen waterfall is close by. The view from above of the white jets falling from a height of 270 meters is mesmerizing.


A steep descent and we are in the village of Vetti Gard, where the trail ends and a good road begins, which takes us to Ovre Ardal, where we take a bus and go to Songdal. Here we were in for a surprise – the campsite where we planned to stay turned out to be closed.  We had to go to another one, and it was another 4km on asphalt. But it was well worth it, with a great view of the town of Songdal from the new campsite.


The next day we rest, do our laundry, walk around the city and the area. We run into all sorts of fun things.


By fjord to Bergen

You can also get to Bergen by bus, but it’s much more interesting and pleasant to sail through the Sogne Fjord (the biggest (280km long) and deepest (up to 1300m) in Norway), which we do.

The end of one necessarily leads to the beginning of something new, often even more exciting. And so our hike along the Jutunheimen trails ended in Bergen, where new participants were already waiting for us, with whom we set off for the legendary Troll’s Tongue.

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