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My happy birthday near Everest or dreams must come true!

Author: Tatiana Cheremis, г. Kharkov, Ukraine
Teamleader: Oleksandr Pavlov
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I was in Nepal in April, but I am writing this review only now, in August. Emotions have subsided, I climbed Kazbek and now I can definitely say that the way to the big mountains is better to start in Nepal, because the admiration of what I saw and the stunning views outweigh difficulties of acclimatization, and the availability of basic living conditions greatly facilitate the long trekking.

I wanted to go to Nepal for a long time, it was my dream, and I wanted to do everything in the best way! I chose the dates so that on my birthday I would be in Everest BC, and that’s almost what happened. Overall, I prepared well, both physically and organizationally. Physically – exercising 4-5 times/week, constant, including winter hikes in the Carpathian Mountains throughout the year. I wanted to enjoy rather than suffer, so I advise you to pay attention to your physical fitness. If you do not like to run, then any aerobic training, intense dancing or long walks, the main thing – to develop endurance.

Organizationally everything turned out great too. In September I bought tickets with 30% discount from FlyDubai at a special offer from Kiev to Kathmandu for $370 there and back. Also I got in on the New Year’s club action and got 30% savings on the program. Stay tuned, Kuluar has many contests and campaigns.

Total expenses including lodging in Kathmandu, domestic flight, porter, meals, trip to Chitwan was about $2,500. An unforeseen financial surprise was the double helicopter flight from/to Lukla. Due to bad weather conditions, there were no planes and we didn’t want to wait. And we didn’t know how long to wait. Anyway, on top of the usual price of a domestic flight of $350, we had to pay another $270. I had to be ready for that, because there were no cash machines in Lukla. But we flew in a helicopter, and that too is an adventure!

Перед полетом на вертолете

Why I chose the route to Everest via Gokyo Lakes and Cho La Pass

According to the description on the website, the Trek through Gokyo Lakes and Cho La Pass looked the most attractive, in fact, the route exceeded my expectations! Magnificent views of Ama Dablam accompanied us for several days of trekking. After climbing to the top of Gokyo Ri (5350m), one of the high points on the route, we saw Everest and Lhotse in all their majestic beauty, towering above the world.

Виды на Эверест и Лхоцзе

Gokyo’s high-altitude lakes of clear blue lent a special charm to the rugged eight-thousand-meter peaks and shaded their peaks.

Озера Гокио в тумане

And the Ngozumba Glacier made a frightening and indelible impression at the same time. The power of nature and the creator in these parts is particularly striking and impressive to the core. I think you can’t see something like this in any other place in such a concentration per 1 m2.

Ледник Нгозумба

Friends, Nepal is a wonderful country with all the climatic zones, in 15 days we had everything – scorching sun, rain, fog, snow, thunder, totally deserted areas of glaciers where there is no life, high mountain peaks, lakes and at the end of the trekking up into the jungle, but that is a separate story. It is worth going there at least once, but once you go there you will definitely want to come back, just like me.

❤ And Kathmandu is the heart of Nepal, it’s hard to tell about it, you have to feel it!

Экскурсии по Катманду

❤ Our cool group, I remember everyone with warmth and fondness! ❤

What is the difficulty of the track? What should be prepared for?

1. acclimatization.

Even short transitions up to 10 km, if you feel unwell (and after 4 thousand it’s a normal condition: constant nausea, headache, intestine problems), then it requires great efforts. The body is letting you know in every way that it’s not good at altitude. If it is not your first altitude, everything will go more smoothly, I was convinced of that when I went to 5k for the second time.

2. Nutrition.

I would say specific – monotonous, dominated by rice and potatoes, mostly fried and fatty. In addition, the higher up, the more expensive, and this is understandable, because at the top of everything is brought by hand. And if in the beginning of the trek local dishes look like exotic, then later we get bored. It is banal to want buckwheat! Above 4 thousand the menu is even scarcer, there is no meat, fresh vegetables and fruits. Although, I had an apple for 2.5 bucks 🙂

Высокогорные яблоки - самые вкусные. Но и самые дорогие :)

3. cold.

The loggias are not heated, and the temperature is almost like outside, on average about 0 degrees. You can get warm only at the fireplace in the common dining room, and then run to the room, to the sleeping bag. All hygienic procedures, as a rule, with water of the same temperature or for a fee warm shower, but also not everywhere.

To endure all this for 15 days, you must have a great desire. The full trek was not for everyone. On Kala Pathar, for example, 5 of 10 participants climbed. I consider, that in such trek it is not necessary to go for the company, there it is necessary to want, and then you surely will succeed!

греемся у печки в столовой

What is the coolness of this route? Why go to Nepal at all?

When you come to Nepal, you can see everything: the mountains, the rivers, the glaciers; there were sections similar to Norway. Unreal views, powerful high mountain ranges, sunrises that illuminate the mountains as if from within. Here you can see a completely different reality, how people live in the most difficult conditions and enjoy life. Here you start to appreciate more what you have. Inexpressible feeling of excitement when helicopters fly lower than you go 🙂

We walked at our own pace for most of it, which means we were alone, and it’s a good opportunity to sort ourselves out and think about what’s important. You can hardly think of a better place to be than wandering around surrounded by mountains that are millions of years old.

It is useless to write about the beauty of landscapes; you have to see them with your own eyes. Our worthless attempts to capture the power and majesty of the highest mountains in the world is just that, an attempt. But still…

Эверест на рассвете при подъеме на Кала-Патхар

Красавец Ама-Даблам

Frequently Asked Questions.

Here I will briefly describe the main questions that were of concern to me before the track and what I was asked about.

1. Is it needed a Porter?

Yes! Unless you are training for Ironman and have an altitude acclimatization. I know a girl who did the trek with a 15 kg backpack, but she runs marathons and mountain trails. If you do not have that kind of training, do not ruin your trip!

2. What money to take and how much?

In addition to the flight and the cost of the program, you will roughly need between $1-$1500. There are ATMs in Kathmandu, but you may have problems with cash. My card was blocked altogether, so cash dollars is ideal. You’ll exchange some for the right amount of cash rupees before the route.

3. Is it worth going to Chitwan?

If you don’t have extra days and $150 to spare, don’t go there. There is nothing very interesting there. The only exotics we saw were hippos.

4. A little about the prices and what you should take with you?

1 liter of water from 1 to 4$ depending on the altitude, 2 boiled eggs to 5,5$. In some loggia I ordered a salad and they brought me defrosted vegetables 🙂 Of course, it’s not a gastronomic tour and some people may not think it’s important, but considering the things I recommend to take with you: sweets (for yourself and to treat the local kids), protein bars, nuts, honey, dried fruits, a couple of canned food, a bag or two of buckwheat porridge, which you can boil, obligatory tea (I recommend herbal tea), as you will get tired of local one, but you should drink a lot, sausages and a pork. It is better to save supplies for the altitude, and not to overdo with weight and quantity, to spoil yourself in especially difficult minutes.

5. To drink or not to drink miracle pills?

Miracle pills are Diacarb or Diamax, essentially a diuretic that relieves swelling and eases the general condition. It seems to me that it is wrong to start taking these drugs as a group, starting with Lukla. Not everyone in our group was taking it at different times. The guide will tell you when it is time. I started taking at about 4300 when I woke up decently swollen and kept taking it until I came down. To drink or not to drink – you decide as you go, but it is necessary to have them with you. Well, and of course, vitamins. I also recommend you to take throat lozenges and nose drops, they will definitely come in handy 🙂


I have never regretted that I had chosen this route! I consider it the best in Nepal and one of the best foreign programs in this price category.

I made my wish come true – this makes me happy and confident that anything is possible, you just have to want to! Dream, act and make your dreams come true!

P.S.: I can tell about Nepal much and for a long time, if you have questions, write to Facebook, I will be glad to suggest something or remove your doubts about the trip. There are albums from Nepal, Kathmandu and Chitwan.

And also, our group managed to meet the Ukrainian expedition to Everest 2018, and I personally met and photographed with Irina Galai. I think this is a sign and you will find out where it all leads to in my next reviews 🙂

Встреча с украинской экспедицией на Эверест

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