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Between Rivers, Fields, and Places of Power

Author: Oleh, Kyiv
Teamleader: Vira Voloshyna
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I decided to mix up my mountain adventures in the Carpathians with a hike through the plains alongside Kuluar on the Vinnytsia–Bar route

This was the first group, so I’d like to share my personal impressions. The hike is scheduled to last 4 days.

We were accompanied by a support vehicle where we could leave all the items we didn’t need during the hike and take only water, a raincoat, and some snacks.

We spent all three nights in tents at pre-designated spots on picturesque meadows.

Day 1. The trek from Vinnytsia to Hnivan. We received our pilgrim’s passport with the first stamp. In my opinion, this was the easiest and probably the most beautiful day of the trek in terms of nature.

Immediately after leaving Vinnytsia, the entire route runs along forest trails and the banks of the Southern Bug River.

Our destination is Hnivan, where we’ll get a green stamp in our passports at the church and take a mini-tour of the Sanctuary of St. Joseph.

The distance for the first day is 28.7 km; we’ll spend the night on the riverbank. For dinner, our team leader Vira prepared a delicious fish soup.

Day 2. Hike from Hnivan to Brailiv to Lelyaky. The night in the tents by the river was very cold, as was the morning.

Although the forecast predicted a sharp rise in temperature to 20 degrees, there was ice in our water kettle that morning.

The hike itself that day was 90% along a highway, which, as it turned out, was very difficult. However, the rest of the route ran along the Riv River, where we saw many birds and even a family of herons.

We checked in at Brailiv and headed on toward Zhmerynka, to our overnight stop in the village of Lelyaky. There, at our campsite, borscht, a campfire, and pleasant evening conversation awaited us.

The forecast, by the way, proved accurate, and by 11 a.m. the sun was already beating down on us mercilessly along the way. This day was the hardest for me; the total distance was 25.7 km.

Day 3. Lelyaky – Zhmerynka – Severynivka – Tokarivka. It was a warm night tonight, and I didn’t get cold anymore.

After coffee and pasta with Parmesan for breakfast, we headed to Zhmerynka, where we received a sticker (for some reason, Zhmerynka issues stickers).

Next, to save time and energy, we took the train two stops to Mezhyriv Station, where we set off along fields and rivers toward Severynivka.

In Severynivka, we were met at the local one-stop service center (which housed the Administrative Services Center, a museum, and the village council), given a tour of the museum, and even offered a job.

The community is looking for a family doctor, but, unfortunately, none of us were qualified for the position. The village itself made a very pleasant impression—it was clean, well-maintained, and the people were very friendly.

We even thought about checking out a house for sale there 🤔 Next, we headed to Chernyatin, where we stopped by the Vitoslavsky-Lviv Palace on our way to our overnight stay in the village of Tokarivka.

I definitely recommend stopping by here. It was scorching hot all day, but walking along the paths through the grass was much easier than the day before on the highway.

Only the last 3 km to the camp were along the road, but the unique rest stop and the storks on the poles made it worth it.

At the edge of the village where we planned to spend the night, local children met us and, with surprise and perhaps pity, asked for permission to take a photo with us.

That’s how we felt like stars 🤣 Our overnight spot was on the picturesque shore of a reservoir at the edge of the village of Tokarivka; for dinner, we had stewed potatoes.

Our driver bought some cold beer as requested, and in the evening we managed to relax a bit after the long drive and the hot day. Distance: 24.45 km

Day 4. Tokarivka – Bar. The finish. I slept like a log that night; it was warm and comfortable. In the morning, we set off toward our finish line in the city of Bar.

I had a train leaving Bar at 3:40 p.m., so we skipped the last 6 km and rode in the support vehicle.

At the local library there, we received certificates of completion for this segment, since officially the route goes all the way to Kamianets-Podilskyi. Distance: 15 km

Did I enjoy it? Yes, definitely! Will I go again? Ask me next year 🤔 After all, hiking in the mountains gives me a bigger energy boost.

Pros of the route: unique Podil, beautiful villages, local color and people, gorgeous nature, and many places of power

Cons: most of the route runs along roads that you have to share with cars and trucks.

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