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How to climb Everest for a beginner? Everest from scratch

Author: Taras Pozdnii

We often receive requests to climb Everest from newcomers – people who have never been to the mountains before. But they have seen a film somewhere, seen a photo somewhere and are inspired by the idea. And if a person is determined and understands that Everest summit is a serious undertaking, we start preparing him, because he is ready to work on himself, to gain experience and to train, and, therefore, Everest is – more than real for him. 

Earlier in a previous article we already wrote about Everest prices as of Spring 2020, that season that was canceled because of the coronavirus. Prices will increase every year, but the price order is generally clear.

Generally speaking, to climb 8,000, and Everest included, you need three main factors to coincide: having money, time and health. This is provided that you already have the necessary experience. In this article I will cover the question of the necessary altitude experience for an attempt to climb Everest.

To climb Everest and to fulfill your high mountain dream is possible with us, a detailed description of the program read here: Climbing Everest.

Our goal is Everest, the highest peak in the world at 8848 meters. Climbing the classic routes is not particularly technically difficult, you just need to be able to move up and down the rope and hike in the crampons. The main problem is the prohibitive altitude. That is why our task is first of all to gain high-altitude rather than technical experience.

Эверест и ледопад Кхумбу

Preparation plan for climbing Everest

I propose to divide our summits into four stages, starting at 5000 meters, because it is possible to go to 5000 without previous experience. On my list will be the summits that require minimal or no technical skills. But at the same time, the more you have even minimal experience with rope and cramponing – the better.

First stage – climbing 5000 m

The first stage is the first altitude experience, peaks above 5000:

Лагерь на склонах Эвереста

The second stage – climbing at 6,000 meters

Well, we have climbed one or more peaks from the first stage and it’s time to move on to the second one. These are the peaks above 6000m.

Прохождение трещин

The third stage – climbing to 7000 m

We have climbed the six-thousanders or several, then it’s time to move on to the peaks of the third stage – the seven-thousanders.

In fact, there aren’t that many seven-thousandths of peaks available.

Вертикальная стена на Эвересте

The fourth stage – climbing to 8000 m

After climbing the 7,000, you’re pretty much ready to try Everest. But you feel you lack confidence? Then you can climb another one of the seven-thousanders or go to the peaks of the fourth stage – the low 8000s.

We have decided on a general list of peaks, and now let’s try to decide on a set of peaks. Of course, the more experience you have, the better. The optimal scheme is to climb 2-3 peaks from the first two stages and one seven-eight-thousanders each. My path to the summit of Everest is described in a separate article. It took me about 1.5 years to climb all of these peaks, starting with Kili and including Everest.

Is it possible to prepare for Everest faster?

Yes, you can.

When we were on Everest, there was a girl from India with us, for whom Everest was her first summit at all. Next to her was a guard for whom Everest was also the first summit, and they always had five or six Sherpas with them. I think she was someone kind of princess. She did climb, and the Sherpas helped her down. But I would highly discourage that option.

Also now it is a popular story when people climb Everest right after Elbrus. But it is not enough experience to understand at least a little bit what awaits them on Everest. There are chances to go up, but they are not so great. And nobody will pay back the money for the expedition.

But I, nevertheless, grudgingly, will outline the minimum, which for me seems acceptable – these are two “snowy peaks” from the first and the third stages. Or any three peaks from different levels.

Восхождение на Эверест

How long does it take to climb Everest from scratch?

The minimum is six months, and the optimum is a year and a half.

For example, let’s look at a few situations, focusing on the seasonality of the peaks. I did not call it for nothing, and now let’s show a picture in front of you.

I should repeat once again that I consider that the minimum necessary time to prepare for Everest physically and to gain experience is half a year. At the same time we understand that Everest becomes your meaning of life for this time, you do not miss any trainings and do everything to get ready to the summit.

Let’s imagine a scenario where you decide in September to climb Everest the following spring, you have no mountain experience.

  1. We have an accelerated program, so we choose the highest peaks of the first level – Elbrus, still possible in September, or Kilimanjaro.
  2. Then we should fly to Nepal in October and November and climb Mera Peak.
  3. In winter we do not have much choice, we need to go to the southern hemisphere and climb Aconcagua.

Total we have a minimum set of experience, constant training between and during the trips, which gives you a good chance to climb Everest. If you haven’t already changed your mind by then))

Of course, if you plan for Everest at least a year in advance, you won’t have the need to travel to the peaks on such a busy schedule.

Here’s another example of a real experience that my partners had:

Remember, the more experience you gain, the better. And know that anything is possible. Once I did not even dream of Everest, and it seemed to me like a flight into space, in my wildest dreams I could not even imagine that I would stand on top of the world! If you have such a dream – go for it step by step! Everything is possible!

See you in the mountains and Kuluar – your life-changing mountain experience

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