I am surrounded by many people who have climbed many of Nepal's eight-thousanders, made difficult technical ascents in the Himalayas, Pakistan, the Tien Shan, and the Pamirs. Against this background, my ascent of Aconcagua seemed very ordinary and something familiar.
But I was surprised that many people expressed interest in this expedition to South America.
And were asked to share more impressions and expedition moments.
So I decided to tell you in the format of a small diary of memories.
The expedition to Aconcagua (for me it is an expedition due to all logistical and organizational aspects) starts in Mendoza. This is a city that is very close to the border with Chile.
In my humble opinion, Mendoza is famous for three things: beautiful tomahawks, delicious Malbec, and as the Mecca of all Ako climbers. Here you can buy gear (prices are cosmic), rent a sleeping bag, mat, boots, and even a down jacket. In Mendoza, the final fees are collected, permits are obtained, and we leave for the entrance to the Aconcagua National Park.... As I write this, I still get goosebumps from the memories of this trip.
On the way we stopped at a very tasty parillada - an assortment of various barbecue meats, and also gave things for the mules. Next time we will see them only in a few days already in the base camp at 4300m. By the way, it is one of the peculiarities of the route to Ako - all loads to the camps are delivered by mules. One mule carries 60 kg. The weight per participant is 20 kg.
Before entering the national park we stayed overnight on the territory of a military base (something like a mountain detachment of border guards). It was quite colorful and unusual. We walked to the Inca Bridge, and everyone was already in anticipation of the crossing.
The next day we had to enter the national park, get bags for our own excrement, and start our trek of 10km to Confluence Camp (3300m) with an altitude gain of 600m. It was a fairly easy trek, through a beautiful scenic valley, with many rivers and bridges. The Andean ranges, which are unlike any other mountains, are visible. Due to the large variety of rocks, they are very colorful.
Camp Confluencia is quite large, it is split between several organizers who are hosts in Argentina. Our group had their own dining-hall as well as a dormitory tent, which we slept in 2 times. There is electricity, restroom, drinking water, and even wi-fi for $10 per half hour. Here we have Full Board - breakfast, lunch, dinner. Local cooks cook, so you don't have to bother with meals.
And we had ahead of us acclimatization to Camp France and transition to the base camp - Plaza de Mulas.
Slow acclimatization is one of the keys to a successful ascent of any peak. "Pole-pole" is what local guides say when climbing Kilimanjaro. The same applies to climbing Aconcagua.
Our first acclimatization outing was from Confluencia to Plaza Francia, which offers incredible views of the southern wall of Aconcagua, a 3000m drop.
On the way to Francia we felt those very legendary Aconcagua winds. When the wind was literally moving me. I got a little worried... if that kind of wind is actually down here. What will it be at 6,000 meters? Well, we'll see.
We reached the height of 4000m, admired the grandiose south wall, ate a sandwich each and started our descent down.
In Confluencia we were waited for by a doctor, who checks blood pressure and saturation, and gives us permission to go to Plaza de Mulas. In my opinion, this is a profanation and an attempt to somehow compensate for the rather large cost of the permit ($800). Although I know cases when doctors did not let people on the route until the indicators are normal for this altitude.
Our group acclimatized well, but the doctors still advised everyone to drink 5 liters of water a day. We went to rest and tune up for the crossing with altitude difference of 1000m and length of about 22km.
In the morning we got peck lunches, had a good breakfast, and geared up for a challenging hard day.
At first the trail is narrow, competing with mules pulling loads to the base camp. But the further we go, the wider it gets. Until we come to a very wide and seemingly endless valley.
We walk slowly, taking our time with Katya. We drink water, occasionally munch something from the peck lunch, monitor our condition.
The water is just endlessly thirsty. Aconcagua is one of the driest places on the planet. Everything dries up here: throat, nose, skin. By the end of the day, you have bloody snot. And this is the reality that you have to put up with for the next two weeks.
Another feature of Ako is dust. Literally within a few hours my tights turned gray and a thin layer of dust formed on my face.
The final climb, which was already at the end of the walk, was pretty exhausting, and we're in Plaza de Mulas.
It's a small town, the places are distributed among various local organizing companies. There is a heli-company office, a medical tent, coffee bars that even serve beer, the highest altitude art gallery in the world. Everything you need for an extended stay.
When we arrived we had a lunch with yupi. It's interesting that in the mountains you eat and drink all sorts of crap that in normal life you wouldn't even look at. Our team had a common diving hall and spacious tents for 2 people.
We're settled in. We felt the altitude a little. Tomorrow we planned to rest, take a shower, and after that - active acclimatization walks.
Our acclimatization outings started with a visit-dotica to Camp Canada (altitude 5050m). This means that it was not planned to spend the night there, but just to visit a new altitude. Some teams bypass overnighting at this camp and go straight to Nido. But we had enough time, we were in no hurry. So we decided to do it as we planned.
The trail is quite steep and dusty. On the one hand it is hot, but as soon as the wind blows, you want to put on a storm jacket. We took a few breaks to eat a candy bar and drink water. The higher we go, the more thirsty we get.
There is no water in the upper camps. And while in Nido and Colera the team leaders solved this issue by heating snow and ice, in Canada we had to bring it ourselves.
We spent about half an hour in Canada and started our descent to the base camp to get ready for the big acclimatization trip. At the bottom we had a lot of things to do: we had to plan and collect things for throwing to the upper camps by porters, to think over everything in detail: what gloves will be needed at what moment in what camp, what socks, what thermal underwear. We carried some things ourselves, some things were thrown by porters, in particular group equipment, such as tents, burners, food, sleeping bags, mats.
The plus point of Aco is that there are no too early exits, except for the assault one. We left Plaza de Mulas around 10am, and walked up at a leisurely pace. Already acclimatized to Canada, so it was much easier than yesterday.
We arrive, slowly put up our tents, some of us decided to sleep in the common dining-hall (it's more fun that way).
We had a sumptuous dinner: we took Travellunch and Idlo for the main courses, and there were a bunch of all sorts of extras: cheese, sausage, olives, breads, chocolates. The reward was a beautiful sunset.
Next day - transfer to the camp Nido di Condores (altitude 5450m). It means "Nest of the Condor".
The trail is quite smooth, not difficult. Alongside us there are porters carrying things and food. Someone carries it himself, and it is a considerable load. The most difficult thing is the incredible dryness. There is a cough, and a constant runny nose, already a little bit with blood((( After coming to the camp the height is already felt a little bit, it is not so easy to move around, there is shortness of breath. I try to walk judiciously, without jerks, calmly. Here sleep becomes intermittent. It is no longer possible to get a perfect night's sleep.
The last acclimatization push the next day - we touch the Colera camp (altitude 5950m). In Nido we put on high-altitude boots to get used to them. And to remember how everything is laced up. We are waiting for the sun to warm up.
The trail to Colera is quite steep, and just before reaching camp there is a small climbing wall.
We made a touch at Colera camp (6000m), spent some time there, and descended to Plaza de Mulas. A day of rest and an assault exit awaits us ahead....
On the day of rest you worry, you have to think over and have time to do everything. Don't forget the little things: what to take with you to the intermediate overnight stays, what to throw in the porters at once.
We managed to take a shower, it was good that it was hot in the base camp. And also to walk around the neighborhood and visit Nims Dai and Katya, to make small talk, and no one let us go without presents. There is a nice, and most importantly, clean hat for climbing.
Exit day, everything is on the beaten path, only Canada is left aside, we don't go in.
Straight to Nido. We spend the night, sleep is much smoother and deeper. Then we go out to Colera, walk at a leisurely pace, have dinner. Tonight's banquet. For dinner Edlo, native, tasty borscht. We decide to leave at 3.30.
My biggest worry is what to wear to stay warm. Because what I dislike most in the mountains is the cold and the wind. But based on the weather forecast, I decide to limit myself to two pants. And put one of them in my backpack in case the wind blows hard.
Buckwheat and meat for breakfast! What a delicious meal! I eat about half a packet, which for the altitude of 6000m and 3 o'clock at night is very good.
Let's get out. In the beginning the trail is very simple, a bit boring, serpentine. I keep thinking about staying awake.
At dawn we reach the old abandoned Independencia lodge. We smear ourselves with creams and lipstick and drink some tea.
We walk a little more, you can even see the snow on the sides.
We go out on the traverse of the mountain. At first the path is narrow, but we can walk. Further it becomes bad, ruined, a lot of loose stones. We walk endlessly, but somehow light on our feeling. We have a rest in the so-called grotto. And then the so-called "Aconcagua wall" starts. It is about 250-300m of climbing on a very steep slope, and the stones literally leave from under your feet. It's starting to get exhausting. Let's go. Every 20-25min we take short breaks to breathe, eat some candy or cookies, take a sip of water. It's working.
But at the last 150m of the ascent to the summit, due to floundering in the rocks below and the altitude, my strength leaves me. But on the plus side, I can already see the summit, because there is just a long traverse of the slope ahead. I endure and tell my brain bikes why I thought it was all there. Dragging my carcass up to the summit of Ako, I think it's not for nothing after all. The highest point in the Andes, the Southern Hemisphere, the highest peak in the world outside of the Himalayas and Karakoram. In these parts, more than anywhere else, you feel like a pioneer who stands almost on the edge of the earth. It is as if the spirit of Magellan or Vespucci hangs a little in the air.
We descend, a little headache on the descent, but then quickly let go when the altitude drops. You have to walk carefully and very fast. On the wall of Aconcagua, and on the traverse above you, there are people who periodically drop stones. You press against the mountain, and listen. You walk fast again. We spend the night in Colera. Exhausted, so we pass out. The next morning we quickly pack our stuff, gather our stuff from all the campsites and run down. We get our certificates and medals. Because next we have another adventure ahead of us)