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Our fourth hike with Kuluar—and a new peak for my daughter

Author: Elizaveta Timokhina, Ukraine
Teamleader: Dmytro Sandul
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There was no question at all about who to go hiking with, since this was already our fourth hike with Kuluar, and we were completely satisfied with the previous three, so all that was left was to choose a route.

I’ve been traveling with my 10-year-old daughter, so I tailor our trips to her stamina and preferences. Before this, we’d already gone on two kids’ hikes with Kuluar, and then we tried an “adult” hike with longer treks

So this time we decided to try something new: to cover a significant elevation gain in a single day and climb one of the 2,000-meter peaks in the Carpathians (spoiler: it all worked out, and our child really enjoyed it!).

The “Ascent of Pip Ivan Chornohirskyi and Smotrych” route, with an elevation gain of about 1,000 meters, turned out to be exactly what we were looking for.

We spent the night at a mountain shelter, so we set out on the trail with light backpacks and trekking poles, which significantly increased our speed.

Itinerary

A few words about the itinerary itself. The first day was mostly about transportation and logistics: we picked up our supplies, drove from Ivano-Frankivsk to Dzembronia, and made our way to the shelter (a little later than planned, but more on that below)

The next two days, however, were devoted to hiking. On the second day, we climbed Pip Ivan via the mountain meadow and Mount Smotrych.

From the summit, we admired the Chornohora Range and even the Romanian Marmarosh Mountains (the view was breathtaking!), and we descended to the shelter via Vukhatyi Kamin.

We also really enjoyed the descent, with its cliffs and scenery, although it was quite steep in places, and we were lucky that it was dry that day

The entire hike took about 8 hours; we made plenty of stops, so we had a chance to both rest and take pictures of the views.

On the morning of the third day, part of the group hiked up to the waterfall on Mount Mikuleska and then on to the summit itself. The climb was a little (okay, I’m kidding—very!) wet due to the morning dew and the soggy ground in some spots, but it was fun))

The rest of the group bought some cheese at a local cheese factory. The descent back to Dzembronia felt like an easy stroll, and we wrapped up the hike, as always, at our now-familiar “Desyatka.”

Essential Gear You Shouldn't Forget

Hiking poles are a must-have for both the second and third days of the program—they really helped us out. We were lucky with the weather: it was both cloudy and partly sunny

Some participants got sunburned (even on their hands), so whatever you do, don’t forget your sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat (it protects your ears and neck better than a baseball cap—I’ve tested this myself); the mountain sun is very treacherous.

But most importantly, there was no fog to block our view of the incredible panorama of the Chornogora Mountains (as happened the day before to other groups—they said visibility was zero, and on top of that, it was very windy and cold up there).

That’s why you need to be prepared for any weather and it’s best to bring a fleece and a waterproof jacket on the hike.

Accommodations

A few words about the tourist lodge where we stayed. I’ve stayed at many before, and I can confidently rank this one first in terms of comfort, condition, and the warmth of the hosts.

After each day of hiking, we were greeted by hot showers, a well-equipped kitchen with all the necessary dishes, bed linens, towels, and slippers. Everything was fresh and clean. We also had the opportunity to do laundry in the washing machine and buy some treats.

A lot of attention has been paid to the authentic look and decor. There are both bunk beds and single beds, but sleeping on the top bunk didn’t affect the quality of my sleep at all.

And the chance to watch the sunrise on the wooden terrace with a cup of aromatic coffee… mmm! Unforgettable!

Acknowledgments

A heartfelt thank you to our team leader, Dmytro Sandul, for his professionalism in organizing the hike: everything was meticulously planned, the food was delicious, the atmosphere was relaxed, and we received a wealth of interesting information and answers to all our questions!

You could really tell he had a lot of experience in the mountains!

Special thanks also go to Kuluar and consultant Natalia for getting in touch quickly and resolving the issue right at the start.

Our train was 4 hours late (due to security alerts), but a shuttle was arranged for all participants traveling on that train, and we made it to the starting point in Dzembron to join the rest of the group without any major issues.

So next time, we’re going with Kuluar again!

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