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A Sip of Georgian Wine in the Middle of the War

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Author: Elena Donskaya, Ukraine
Teamleader: Anna Belova
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The war began suddenly. No one could have imagined that in today's civilized world such a cruel and unjust war could begin. For me it all started at 5 a.m. on February 24, 2022, when several explosions with blinding flashes were heard on the other bank of the Dnipro, and we realized that here it was - war!

And so it went, everything developed very rapidly and unpredictably.

Over time, we constantly heard the cannonade of artillery behind Kiev, then prepared for the siege of our city, constantly lived under the howl of the siren that announced the threat of an air attack or air strikes, and continued to do the work, which became even more numerous due to the events that arose.

They could only wait out the threat of an air attack on the 8th floor of an apartment building, very often hearing the vibration of the floor about the missile strikes on Kiev and its surroundings.

And so it went on for months, both day and night, when you constantly want to sleep and lie down, but come morning you have to solve problems and make decisions. And all the time you are accompanied by anxiety for your relatives and pain for Ukraine, which was carefree, beautiful and flourishing, and turned into ruins, and a lot of human casualties and crippled lives. And the unhealing wound of bitterness: why? Who gave the right for the foreign soldier's boot to tread on our soil? How can we justify missile and air attacks from the territory of Belarus, Russia and our Crimea? How many unjustified civilian casualties...

Then came the emotional burnout and the desire to escape from this hell, at least for a while.

My hobby in my peaceful life is trekking in the mountains. Walking along trails among trees or rocks, through flowering meadows or thickets of rhododendrons, climbing peaks and admiring the majesty of nature.

It did not work out to get to the mountains right away. The Kuluar, with whom I traditionally spend my vacation time, responded to my request by saying that they were now devoting all their efforts and time to volunteering and protecting Ukraine, and that after the victory they would organize hikes.

A month passed and I was contacted, announcing that groups would be formed in several areas and you can sign up.

My choice fell on Georgia, but a new obstacle, which I was mentally prepared for, how to get there? Air service in Ukraine has been discontinued. But a great desire to walk in the mountains solves everything. Built a route through Poland, pre-training, backpacking and I'm on my way to my long-time dream - to visit Georgia.

The road was not easy, I took a train to Poland, then the train to Krakow, the airport, a flight from Poland to Georgia, transfer Kutaisi-Batumi, finding a hotel in Batumi at 2 am at night, and it took 1.5 days.

What struck me the next day and throughout my stay in Georgia was the hospitality of the Georgians, their friendliness and support when they found out that I was from Ukraine.

It was very surprising to see so many Russian citizens in Batumi, spending their time carefree at the seaside, on the promenade or moving around the city, while their country destroys my country and kills and maims civilians.

I wanted to shout out to everyone: people there (in Ukraine) are destroying schools, houses and killing people! And it is scary!

The next day we met the group and started camping. The more time passed, the more the pain dulled, but the thought of the tormented Ukraine never disappeared.

We formed a very interesting, multinational, and multifaceted group. Three people from Israel - Eitan, Rostislav, and Misha. Irochka from Cyprus, a constant optimist, a Ukrainian who has lived in Cyprus for over 20 years. Lena and Ksenia from Germany, also at one time moved from Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Josip and I are from Ukraine. Anya is our guide, from Ukraine, who fell in love with Georgia at one time and lives there permanently now, doing occasional forays into the mountains. Each of us brought a different flavor to our hiking life.

But the biggest mark in my impressions, of course, is of Georgia and its delightful views of mountain peaks, glaciers, waterfalls, and small streams that all poured together into violent streams of mountain rivers.

During the hike we managed to see many mountain ranges, peaks, including the highest mountain peak in Georgia - Shkhara.

Our hike began with the fact that we gradually traveled by minibus from Batumi to Svaneti, on the way we visited the Inguri hydropower plant, looked at the emerald color of the water and, twisting serpentines, reached the foot of Mount Ushba, settled in guest cottages.

It should be noted that the trip included, among other things, learning the local national Georgian cuisine. And when you settle in a new place dishes, which have the same name, may differ in appearance and taste. And you have to keep in mind that Georgians are big fans of spices and salt, and sometimes you have to be wary of trying things you haven't eaten before. But the interesting thing about camping is that you keep discovering new and interesting things!

Yes, the most interesting part of a hike is exploring the surroundings. And there is a lot to see in Georgia!

There are a lot of waterfalls that cascade down along the cliffs, high peaks and mountains with snow caps on top, centuries-old glaciers, which are gradually melting and changing their shape, mountain slopes covered with grass and mountain flowers of different shades, mountain villages very small and medium-sized with centuries of history, strong streams of rivers.

Georgia is impressive!

There are certain moments of the hike that are particularly memorable.

First, when on the last day of the hike, we gradually climbed to a mountain peak with a height of 3000 meters, and gradually in front of us unfolded the panorama of mountain ranges with their grandeur of peaks and glaciers, and you watch from the side as a man on their background becomes a small grain of sand in front of the universal universe.

The second, visiting the glacier, which is gradually melting, and the melted water flows out of the grotto and a turbulent stream tends down, joining the other streams in a turbulent river. And how the pebbles and large stones from the thawed slopes are falling down with a rumble, and it is scary not to catch anyone.

Also, an interesting thing from my experience. I went to Ushguli at 5:30 in the morning to meet the sunrise and watch it gradually illuminate the mountain peak Shkhara. I went outside the gate of our village and saw a man with a professional camera, I thought he had the same plans as me. But he addressed me in English, it was useless to talk in English to someone who had been learning French all along. I gestured to him: "follow me!" He walks, then says something again, I say to him, "come on!"

Then he mouthed something again and got lost. Well, I guess he changed his mind about going too far. As it turned out later, he came to film traditions of bull slaughtering as a sacrifice. But that's a separate story.

Thanks Kuluar for the fact that I again experienced a lot of emotions and got a lot of positive impressions from the hike!

Dream on and your dreams are sure to come true. You just need to put a little effort!

And most importantly, everyone have a peaceful sky overhead!

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